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Friday, 17 January 2014 10:09

Cala Luna

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Two climbing sectors interrupted by a marvellous beach. On the right, with one’s back to the sea, there is a rock of medium height with some small caves full of single-pitches, some of them soapy, often very difficult with prevalent overhangs. On the left there is a huge rock spur with some double-pitch. In total, there are about 30 routes with a difficulty level between 5c and 8b+.

Access: From the boat harbour of cala gonone, pleasure boats go to cala luna from the end of may until the end of october and during the holidays. alternatively, you can choose to walk along a path through the canyon for about one and a half hours.

description: On the right side of the beach (the caves), there is a rock of medium height with some small caves full of single-pitches, some of them soapy, but nice and often very difficult with prevalent overhangs. On the left, there is a very nice huge rock spur with some double-pitches.


recommended season: Throughout the whole year. it is recommended not to climb on windy days (sirocco) in the area of the large caves.

Orientation – cardinal direction: Facing east


Height:
from 15 to 75 metres

necessary equipment

ropes: 60metres for single-pitch ropes or 2 ropes of 50 metres for the longer routes.

pegging: mainly expansion-typed rock anchors resp. bolts.


The routes

There are about 30 routes in two different sectors separated by the beach.

Le Grotte / the caves (right side)

Name

Length

Difficulty level

Senza nome

7 metres

-

Chi Tienne 'O mare

15 metres

6c

Pesce Abissale

15 metres

6c

Anopfel

15 metres

6c

Mr. Nice

15 metres

6c+

Special Case

15 metres

Mr. Franz

10 metres

6c+

Strangios

15 metres

7a+

Rust

10 metres

-

Il Quinto Passo

10 metres

6c+

Stamina

12 metres

6c+

La Nausea

15 metres

6c+

Il Guru

15 metres

Gioventù Cannibale

15 metres

7b+

Eia

30 metres

8b+

Aube

15 metres

7c+

Esti unu pachiderma

15 metres

7b+

I Ronfioni

15 metres

7c+

Aray

20 metres

7a+/7b

El Gomone

25 metres

8b

Progetto Lynn Hill

20 metres

8a+

La Mucca Assassina

20 metres

7c

Cala Luna

15 metres

7b

Sexy Bomb

15 metres

Power Cicken

15 metres

7c

Bellas Mariposas

15 metres

7c+

Laura

20 metres

-

Figa Velenosa

20 metres

7a+/7b

Baby Pipistrello

15 metres

6a+

Puta Vida

15 metres

7a+

Telenovelas

15 metres

-


Scoglio di Luna / Moon rock (left side)

Name

Length

Difficulty level

La Strada per Lula

18 metres

6b

Uu metresare di infiniti ricordi

18 metres

5c

L’altro sport

18 metres

6b

Satori

18 metres

6a+

La prima goccia

18 metres

5c

Fata Morgana

18 metres

6b

Fessura degli spilli

70 metres

5c

Vamos a la playa

75 metres

Joey

30 metres

7b+

Vampiri di Vetro

40 metres

6b

Vampiri di Vetro2

30 metres

6b+

 

From Address:

Additional Info

  • latitude: 40.2252
  • longitude: 9.6262
Read 3636 times Last modified on Friday, 14 March 2014 12:38
More in this category: Aguaplano "Pranos" »
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